Car buying for dummies

"SHARPSPEED" (SHARPSPEED)
06/07/2019 at 17:01 • Filed to: None

I’m making the first steps to finally m oving out on my own. The only thing tethering me to my parent’s home is the car I drive, which is in their name. SO I need to buy my own car and I’m pretty sure I found one. It’s a used Focus for just under $10k. I wanna do monthly payments on it, obviously. I have never, NEVER bought a car before prior to this. Any oppos have any tips? Is there a “used car buying for dummies” site I can look for? I have looked but I get the feeling some important detail s are left out.

DISCUSSION (26)

412GTI > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:19

Former Car sales here. Get a loan Pre-Approval. One of the best things you can do - makes the process easier and you know what type rate you qualify for and if the dealer can do any better.

Here’s a ton of good FAQ’s from the r/askcarsales reddit.

Also, if it is an automatic Focus 2012+ AVOID it. They have garbage Dual Clutch Transmissions.

facw > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:20

Any particular reason not to just buy your current car from your parents?

Setting that aside, be sure to get a pre-purchase inspection from a third-party, whether buying from a dealer or a private party. Do not place much, if any, value in dealer inspections. If someone doesn’t want to let you do one, assume they have something to hide and move on.

BlueMazda2 - Blesses the rains down in Africa, Purveyor of BMW Individual Arctic Metallic, Merci Twingo > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:20

Just make sure it doesn’t have the PowerShit™ dual-clutch.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:20

Why buy a $10,000 focus when you could have this audi instead?

https://kalispell.craigslist.org/cto/d/bigfork-2004-audi-s4-quattro/6905684351.html

Kinja'd!!!

Or even better, this Jag for about $6k.

Kinja'd!!!

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:23

10/10 would not buy a focus unless it’s a manual or ST with a manual.

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:29

1996 Camry SE Coupe for $2100 instead? :D

atfsgeoff > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:32

If at all possible, buy private party. You can get a much better deal when skipping the middleman (car dealer). Just take out a personal loan from your bank or credit union of choice. Interest will be a bit higher, but you should save way more than the additional interest you pay out by getting the car for thousands less. Plus you don’t have to worry about repo-men coming after your car if you miss a payment or two, though your credit score will still take a hit.

Neil drives a beetle and a fancy beetle > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:33

Get pre approved through your bank/credit union

Get a PPI

Have more than one car in mind

Don’t buy an auto recent gen focus

Make a big enough down payment that you’re not underwater right away

Get a loan term short enough that you don’t get underwater on the loan

You’ll need comprehensive insurance with a reasonable deductible determined by the lender

Have car insurance when you go to test drive and buy

Add the car to your insurance the day you buy

Get gap insurance which covers difference in value to loan amount if you do end up underwater and have to total the car at any point

If they offer a warranty make sure you understand it and it’s in writing

CarsofFortLangley - Oppo Forever > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:39

Do not buy a focus with an auto.

VajazzleMcDildertits - read carefully, respond politely > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:43

Honestly it would probably help you a lot more than we can just by linking FAQs and giving general guidelines by hanging out with you while you go through the process, giving you advice all the way.

The ones that overall stuck to me is
1. Pre Purchase Inspections are worth the $100 or w/e they wind up costing.
2. any dealer where you wind up doing the 4 square sheet for payments, walk out.
3. Like 2, make sure to haggle on price of car, not on monthly payment which is variable with interest rate, down payment, and loan length.
4. remember until you sign the contract that says you bought the car (and not signing some randoms sheet) you don’t own anything and can walk out.
5. YMMV per state, but in my state, you don’t have to sign the form indicating dispute arbitration.
6. D on’t take advice from people who don’t know the process.
7. Check the cost breakdown for hidden fees, and google for things that are commonly added that you don’t need.

Under_Score > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:47

My sister is younger and she just bought a new Rogue. Though our parents were with us, the buying process wasn’t stressful at all. At the same time, it’s only being partially financed to get the Nissan deals.

Also, as others have said, the Focus is probably one of the worst used cars of the 2010’s. My friend has had good luck with her 2016 SE from what I can tell, but the pre-refresh Focus is full of issues. Not to mention the vehicles are small inside, too. At least they came in fun colors!

Is there a way to transfer registration and insurance to you, though? That’s what was gonna happen with my sister’s old Rogue, but then a wreck happened.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 17:57

The first car I ever bought was from a low end used car lot on the shabby side of town. It was a 1975 Datsun B210. It actually ran and didn’t have oil mixed with the coolant. It was $575 cash and I rode my bicycle to the lot to test drive then buy.

Bylan - Hoarder of LS400's > 412GTI
06/07/2019 at 18:27

Thank you for warning about those garbage F ord focuses! There’s a reason they’re so cheap. I know 2 young adults who bought one because they were clueless and both of the transmissions shudder and have been to the dealer. My Lexus with 219k miles has a buttery smooth transmission

SHARPSPEED > Under_Score
06/07/2019 at 18:48

Is the C-Max any better?

SHARPSPEED > 412GTI
06/07/2019 at 18:48

How about the C-Max?

SHARPSPEED > Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
06/07/2019 at 18:50

Because I need a car I can drive to work and not to the mechanic.

SHARPSPEED > facw
06/07/2019 at 18:50

I’m not on good terms with my parents right now.

Highlander-Datsuns are Forever > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 18:53

FIFY: Because I need a car I can drive to work and not tow to the mechanic.

Under_Score > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 18:57

I don’t know. I think the transmissions aren’t bad, it’s a hybrid, and there’s good space inside. Depreciation has hit them hard, too, which is good for a used buyer. If you can find a C-Max SEL (more features that make it current) with a ton of records for sub-$10,000, that would be my top choice if you stuck with Ford.

Try to avoid 2013 to be safe. Here’s a decent 2014 with a good CARFAX. Only an SE, though.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/774744857/overview?aff=share_other

Another update: Neil (one of the commenters on this post) has a C-Max, so I’d ask him about long-term dependability.

412GTI > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 19:17

Much better! I don’t know a whole lot about them, but they should be decent

SHARPSPEED > 412GTI
06/07/2019 at 19:36

A 2014 Dart is another one I’m eyeballing. An y issue there?

SHARPSPEED > Neil drives a beetle and a fancy beetle
06/07/2019 at 19:37

Another fine fellow here says you drive a C-Max. How’s that been for you? It’s another one at the dealer I’m eyeballing.

412GTI > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 19:44

Eh a 2.0 or 2.4 Dart might be okay, but they still don’t have my full trust.

Neil drives a beetle and a fancy beetle > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 21:14

In general, pretty good. We got it a little over 2 years ago and have put maybe 30,000 or so miles on it and it’s only needed oil and a battery and a turn signal so far. So in terms of reliability; no complaints.

The battery went out in the middle of the polar vortex and we had some Sync issues around that time too. But I reset the system and put in a new battery and all has been well since.

The gas mileage suffered once we put a rack on. I think pre-rack it was around 37mpg combined; now it’s 34ish but I’m going to get shorter bars and a fairing.

They are a pretty good bargain for what they are. They are not particularly fun to drive but I doubt anything in the segment is. Except a Jetta hybrid or Honda CR-Z , might be; those are also cheap for the age/miles from what I’ve seen .

Other than that; Storage is good; seats are decent; sync works pretty well. If you’ve got any other questions let me know.

BrianGriffin thinks “reliable” is just a state of mind > SHARPSPEED
06/07/2019 at 21:35

As others have said, avoid the Focus. Everyone I know who has had one has had trans issues, and has hated it. The C-Max is solid, as is a hybrid Fusion if it’s your thing. Take some time and drive a bunch of stuff (I don’t buy from CarMax, but they’re a sweet place to take a bunch of test drives).

While getting preapproved from a credit union is the best route, it may be tough if you don’t have an established credit history. Give it a shot, but don’t be surprised if the answer is no and don’t be discouraged.

Dealership financing isn’t the worst thing in the world. Don’t go to a roadside, small time lot...a bigger dealership will generally be less painful on the backend of the deal. That’s not always the case, but it’s been my experience. Subaru and Lexus have been the best for me as far as dealing with the finance guys (that doesn’t mean you need to buy a Subaru or Lexus, just that their dealerships tend to be easy to work with. You can find used cars on their lots, obviously. I’ve also found that my local Subaru dealerships offer the best, just above auction pricing on most of their non-Subaru trades, but YMMV).

Just be patient and the right car will find you.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > SHARPSPEED
06/08/2019 at 01:04

As others have said get pre approved, but also I’d look at what you can afford for a monthly payment and multiply by 36, that’s your new budget for the car. Don’t stretch out the loan term so you stay on the right side of the depreciation curve. Then you won’t need gap coverage. If you need to lower your car budget, you’re better off to do that vs strap yourself with a car loan for 5 years, or more and be upside down on the car until year 5 of the loan. If you can’t afford it, then you can’t afford it, no shame there, just don’t get caught up in thinking you need to spend a bunch of money to get something reliable. I’ve made that mistake and I’ve seen others do it as well. It sucks. Took me three cars to pay off my first one. Never again. Don’t be Afraid of higher miles either, assuming the service history is good, and as others have said, a PPI is a must. Best $100-$200 you’ll spend. Good luck.